Nepal, Kathmandu 7 (Embassy, Club Night, Rickshaw Battle)
November 23, 2010
Back in “beloved” Kathmandu-Thamel…
…and back to my “favourite pastime”: battling bureaucracy, in this case the Indian Embassy. I spent this day, too, waiting and talking, to finally get the “multiple entry” visa I was after. Along the way I heard from a few other travellers that a little “extra cash” would speed everything up considerably. Certainly interesting to know – but I didn’t want to try it; after all, I’m in it for the “challenge”. (Never would have thought that applying for a visa for a Third World country could be a challenge… but hey, you live and learn. Maybe it also has something to do with Germany wanting to stop its development aid for India… Who knows, who knows… Either way, that’s not what gratitude for the development aid provided so far looks like.)
Other than that, after the attempt to rip me off at my last hotel, which I’ve already told you about, I switched accommodation today and spent the rest of the evening on office work (planning and research) – not very exciting, but simply essential on a longer trip.
November 24, 2010
Before my next trip to the Indian palace of bureaucracy, I witnessed a wedding in front of my new accommodation. The bride and groom (on the right) didn’t look all that happy – who knows what match the parents had picked for them (arranged marriage) – but hey, the guests were delighted, at least…
Afterwards I spent today, too, at the Indian Embassy’s visa centre – including a long conversation with the nice embassy boss. The upshot: the battle was won. Without paying a single bribe, after days of back and forth, I finally had my „multiple entry” visa in my passport that evening! Good things come to those who wait. …or do they? I asked what the point was of the additional note “Gap of two months between 2 visits in India is mandatory.” on my visa. The answer came promptly:
Embassy employee: “This is a new rule since 6 months. Every multiple entry visa is like this.”
Me: “Why?”
Embassy employee: “This is a new rule. The government set it.”
Me: “What is the reason? I’d like to come back to India within two months.”
Embassy employee: “This is a new rule since 6 months now. Every multiple…”
Me: “…entry visa is like this. I know! But why?”
Embassy employee: “This is because of the new rule… blablabla”
Me: “…” (thinking: “Brawndo’s got what plants crave…” –>[Idiocracy]<–)
Embassy employee: “blablabla….every multiple entry visa is like this.”
Me: “Is it because the government said it?”
Embassy employee: “Yes.” (beaming)
Me: “Ahh, this is a new rule of the government for every multiple entry visa, isn’t it?”
Embassy employee: “Yes.” (beaming even more)
Me: “Ok, and it’s a new rule since 6 months now, isn’t it?
Embassy employee: “Yes.” (still grinning)
Me: “And what is the reason for this kind of rule?”
Embassy employee: “This is because of the government…”
Me: “Ok, ok, I understand… the new rule…” [Idiocracy!!!]
Embassy employee: “Yes.”
Me: “May I speak with the head of your visa office?”
Well, on the Indian subcontinent you’re better off not asking what the point of anything is, but I still wanted to be sure I’d be allowed back into India after my side trip to Sri Lanka. Another conversation with the embassy boss revealed that, with my “Multiple-Entry-Visa” (which, mind you, means “MULTIPLE(!!!!!)-ENTRY visa”), I would have to go to the Indian Embassy in Sri Lanka to get extra permission there to re-enter India. Asking what the point was didn’t get me very far here either. Still, the embassy boss reassured me that it shouldn’t be a problem. From his lips to God’s ears – we’ll see… Truly “impressed” by Indian bureaucracy, I took my leave. I really can’t stay in Kathmandu any longer – if only for the sake of my health (the air here is beyond filthy).
In the evening, while getting cash out, I happened to meet a girl from Finland. Henna and I soon got chatting, and one pizza later we moved straight on to a bar (“Sam’s Bar”), where we also met Adam, a seriously seasoned world traveller, and Dale and Tom, a couple from Australia. What a relief that was! After the last two days of embassy experiences, a few sensible people and some meaningful conversation were exactly what I needed!
Later, Henna, Adam and I moved on to a “secret” disco right in the city centre that stayed open long past closing time… (only a few clubs here have that privilege – or rather, grease the police’s palms accordingly…). If you don’t know exactly where these clubs are in Kathmandu, just ask a rickshaw driver – they know 100 %.
While the streets of Kathmandu-Thamel were deserted, the illegal disco was absolutely rocking.
We were certainly popular here. These three photos were taken within 30 seconds. Photo 1…
…photo 2…
…photo 3…
All in all, a really fun evening and a perfect farewell to Kathmandu and the whole visa circus.
When we left the club, a whole horde (yes, “horde” really is the right word here!) of rickshaw drivers was already waiting…
…and closed in on us. “Where do you wanna go?”, “Cheap price!”, “I’m cheaper!”, “Hop in!”, “I’m better!”, “More cheap!”, “Take a seat!”, “Come to me!” and so on and so forth…
In the end, this young gentleman won the job of taking the three of us to our respective lodgings. You could tell how proud he was. ;)
Some of the other rickshaw drivers, however, refused to give up and chased after us. “Come into my rickshaw”, “I’m the better driver.”, “Come with me”. Honestly, I couldn’t stop laughing. I’ve rarely seen such persistence. As a thank-you for the “entertainment”, I handed out the rest of my pizza (from my doggy bag from the last restaurant) to the other rickshaw drivers during the truly hilarious ride – a very dedicated and very grateful bunch.
Of course, during the ride we also saw the sad side of Kathmandu by night: forgotten street children huddled together, asleep on the pavement.
When I eventually made it back to my accommodation, I found myself standing in front of a locked gate. First I tried to get someone’s attention quietly, then, a few minutes later, a bit louder. Nothing… After a few more minutes of waiting, I tried again, louder still… Nothing. On my third, decidedly noisy attempt, someone finally heard me and let me in.
Wow, what a day – and now I finally have everything I need to leave Kathmandu! My excitement went through the roof. Tomorrow the journey continues. :)
Further reading:
- Kathmandu – Capital of Nepal
- Arranged marriage – In some countries the rule rather than the exception
- Visa – A kind of admission ticket for entering another country
- Third World – Synonym for developing country
- Stop development aid for India – News excerpt
- Development aid for India 2009 – News excerpt
- Idiocracy – A parody of our society’s growing degeneration
- Closing time – Rules to protect the peace at night…
- Rickshaw – Human-powered (bicycle) taxi, usually with very enterprising drivers…
- Horde – A wild, roaming gang
- Doggy bag – Container for taking home leftovers
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